Even Ghana's director of tourism may have to admit that Accra
has its work cut out competing with other tourist destinations in
Africa. Yet just outside the capital, is the suburb of Teshi and it
is here that tourists are coming to look at a relatively new
tradition - the fantasy coffin makers.
Drive slowly down the main high street in Teshi, Eastern Accra,
and you would probably glance at showrooms and wonder why anyone
would want to exhibit a large red fish, or an oversized hammer.
It is as if you have arrived at some strange storage area for a
local drama group or even film set.
But, further into town, you will see another couple of "film set"
workshops, and another, and goodness, is that really an aeroplane?
On closer inspection each of these objects turns out to be a
wooden casket highly crafted and lovingly finished to transport the
newly deceased on their journey to the afterlife.
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Many of their clients want to bury loved
ones in something that reflects their trade - even if that
means being buried in a Coca-Cola bottle  |
Isaac
Adjetey Sowah is the manager of the family business his grandfather
started.
And at only 22 he has seen it all and he has made it all.
Coffins crafted as hammers, fish, cars, mobile phones, hens,
roosters, leopards, lions, canoes, cocoa beans and several
elephants.
It seems there is nothing Isaac's company would not consider.
Mercedes and Cadillacs are very popular he tells me.
'Dignity and status'
But if the designs are fanciful, the business of death is taken
very seriously indeed.
And the final journey on this earth has to be marked with as much
dignity and status as can be mustered.
Isaac would like his own coffin to be shaped
like a carpenter's plane |
Isaac and
his team of carpenters work with many different types of wood in the
open-air workshop.
One employee is crafting a cocoa bean, another is chiselling the
fine details of a complicated pineapple design.
Many of their clients want to bury loved ones in something that
reflects their trade.
Even if that means being buried in a Coca-Cola bottle.
Perhaps surprisingly, this is a new tradition. It has only been
around for about 50 years.
The story goes that in the first half of last century one Ata
Owoo was well-known for making magnificent chairs to transport the
village chief on poles or the shoulders of minions.
When Owoo had
finished one particularly elaborate creation, an eagle, a
neighbouring chief wanted one too, this time in the shape of a cocoa
pod. A major crop in Ghana.
However, the chief next door died before the bean was finished
and so it became his coffin.
Then in 1951, the grandmother of one of Owoo's apprentices died.
She had never been in an aeroplane, so he built her one for her
funeral.
And a tradition was born.
Popular designs
When I asked Isaac about his most unusual commission his eyes
light up and a big grin envelopes his face.
 |
A Bible coffin, starting at around $400,
might represent a year's salary for many of Isaac's clients
 |
"Oh," he says, "An angel, a big white angel".
Now it seems he cannot wait to craft the archangel Gabriel
himself.
But for those wanting something more conventional, there is
always the Bible coffin which remains a popular design.
Think of a large box in the shape of a leather bound book with
the front cover on hinges, and you get the idea.
It is not the most expensive either, although starting at around
$400 that could be a year's salary for many of Isaac's clients.
It became a bit of a challenge to guess how each of these coffins
actually opens.
To my untrained eye, I had no idea how you would get a body into
an enormous snail that would not have looked out of place on the
film set of "Dr Dolittle".
Isaac gently explained that the shell came off.
And I felt even more foolish when I had to ask who it was for. A
snail seller, of course.
You can buy large fat specimens any day of the week in the
market.
 |
One part of the family will come along
and decide that the canoe another family member ordered, just
is not right for uncle Jo  |
And that enormous biro?
A journalist of course. I was beginning to get the hang of this.
But even in death there are often disputes.
One part of the family will come along and decide that the canoe
another family member ordered, just is not right for uncle Jo.
He should have a much larger boat to represent a lifetime as a
fisherman, despite the fact that Isaac's team has lovingly crafted
an oarsman to row him to eternity.
Meanwhile, Uncle Jo lingers in a mortuary for a year or so while
the two sides fight it out.
And what about Isaac's own casket. What would he have?
He had obviously worked this out a long time ago and decided he
had made far too many hammers.
He was going to have a carpenter's plane.
And then the inevitable question.
What about me?
Well, I am hoping it is not going to be for a very long time yet,
but having worked in radio for more years than I care to remember, I
think it will just have to be a microphone.
From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Saturday, 29
January, 2005 at 1130 GMT on BBC Radio 4. Please check the programme
schedules for World Service transmission times.